La Paz is the capital of Baja California Sur and the quieter, more local side of the peninsula. It sits on the Sea of Cortez, the water Jacques Cousteau called the aquarium of the world, and the pace is slower, the beaches emptier, and the marine life extraordinary. Here is what to know before you arrive.
Getting There
You can fly into La Paz (LAP), which has connections through Mexican hubs, or fly into Los Cabos (SJD) and drive up, about two and a half hours north through the Baja backcountry. Your concierge arranges the transfer either way, and the drive up from Cabo is a scenic one.
When to Visit
October through May brings warm, dry days and calm water. The headline seasons are the wildlife ones: whale sharks gather off La Paz from roughly October to April, and gray whales fill nearby Magdalena Bay from January to March. Summer is hot but rewards divers with the warmest, clearest water.
Getting Around
The Malecón, the seafront promenade, is the heart of town and easily walked. For the best beaches and the islands you will want a car or, more easily, a private driver arranged by your concierge, since Balandra, Tecolote, and the boat launches for Espíritu Santo sit outside the center.
What Not to Miss
- Balandra Beach, a shallow turquoise lagoon often called the most beautiful in Mexico
- Swimming with whale sharks in season, the gentle giants of the bay
- A day trip to Espíritu Santo island to snorkel with a sea lion colony
- The Malecón at dusk, with its sculptures, seafood, and sunset over the water
- Gray-whale watching in Magdalena Bay, a couple of hours away, from January to March
